Understanding Fiber Content & Fabric Structure

Written By Jeremy gage

Many of the “budget” fashion brands or clothing sources will try to mystify the what and the how of your garment by blending together common keywords in descriptions and on garment tags. Today, I want you to give you the know-how so that you can purchase with confidence and care for your clothing for the long haul.

The building blocks of textiles

Textiles are made up of two things: The Fiber Content (the Material of the Garment) & the Textiles Structure (How that material is combined)

Fiber Content can be broken into two general categories: Natural & Synthetic

Natural Fiber is farmed from plant & animal sources:

  • Plant-Based:

    • Flax (aka Linen) - strong with wicking properties

    • Hemp - lightweight & highly sustainable

    • Cotton - soft, breathable, and durable. Can Hold moisture

    • Jute - Often used for canvas, like what you imagine farms use

    • Bamboo - newer to the scene.

  • Animal-Based

    • Wool/Hair - camel/sheep/goat

    • Silk - made by silk worms, unique shine and high tensile strength

Synthetic Fiber is constructed via chemical processes:

  • Polyester

  • Nylon

  • Acrylic

  • Spandex

  • Semi-Synthetic - cellulose-based (Lyocell, Rayon, Acetate)

Fabric Structure refers to the techniques used to bring the materials together once they are spun into yarns.

Woven Techniques:

  • Plain Family - the warp and weft threads cross at right angles, aligned so they form a simple criss-cross pattern.

    • Basket Weave

    • Balanced Plain Weave

  • Twill Family - the warp and the weft form a pattern of parallel, diagonal ribs.

    • Herringbone

    • Houndstooth

    • Denim

    • Chino

  • Satin Family - X number of weft yarns float over a warp yarn, and the X number of warp yarns float over a single weft yarn.

    • 4-harness satin (4HS or 3x1)

    • 5-harness sain (5HS or 4x1)

    • 8-harness satin (8HS or 7x1)

Knit Techniques that make up your ribs, welts, and cables giving them flexibility and stretch include:

  • Stocking Stitch

  • Reverse Stocking

  • Garter Stitch

  • Seed Stitch

  • Faggoting

  • Tricot

There are also non-woven textiles like leather and interfacing that are fused together and provide structure to apparel and other items.

Knowing is half the battle

This all matters because alphabet soup suppliers will cut corners and go after minimums to make profit-margins wider. they want you to buy items that are — by design — going to wear out at a lightning speed or not fulfill your purchase fantasy. this way you will throw it away and buy again.

with that you now have the ability to:

  • Purchase with confidence

  • Find resources to help you care for your clothes

  • Spread this information to your friends and family

If you found this article helpful feel free to buy me a coffee! and/or share this in your circles.

Catch you next time!

Jeremy gage